The first step to making any kind of art is the dream and idea process. For this you will need lots of late nights, maybe some music, and keeping your mind open to any idea that pops into your head! Once I have my idea, I look for reference photos. You could do this in any book with pictures or the internet. Now for supplies!

Pattern Making

Once you have your idea and reference photos, it’s time to sketch and trace. For sketching I use any old pencil, these perfect pink erasers from your childhood, and a nice big pad of sketch paper. Sometimes you need to trace a specific element of your idea. For this I use large sheets of tracing paper.  

Once you have your final sketch ready, you’ll need a light table to transfer your sketch onto adhesive paper. Not everyone uses adhesive paper for their pattern, so feel free to use whatever you see fit!

Cutting

After you cut out your pattern and stick it to the glass you’ve chosen, it’s time to cut the glass! Weeee!! I use these glass cutters. I never oil my glass cutter because it makes my grip slippery and I don’t see oil necessary- but again that’s just me. You’ll need running pliers to cut away the large chunks of glass, and grozing pliers to get all the small pieces of glass away from your pattern. 

Grinding

I use the Glastar 2, which I’m not sure if they sell anymore. But if I needed to buy a new grinder it would be this wonderful Glastar grinder. The one I have now has lasted me 10+ years and I have no negative things to say about it. You’ll also use a couple different sizes of grinder bits. A three quarter inch grinder bit and a quarter inch grinder bit. Another grinder option is a ringsaw. It’s not necessary, but if you do lots of tricky cuts and can afford it, there’s no better ringsaw than the Taurus 3 Ring Saw. 

Grinding Replacement Parts

As you you use your grinders, replacing parts and general maintenance comes with the territory. The Taurus 3 Ring Saw blade will go dull over time, so you will need to learn to replace it. You can look up all maintenance videos on YouTube very easily. Keep an eye on your ringsaw belt, and try to replace that if it looks tattered. You will probably also need to replace your orange grommet gears at some point. And I have replaced my blade stabilizer once as well. 

Foiling

You can play around with different sizes of foils, my favorite foil is copper backed 7/32. If you are planning on doing any pressed flowers pieces you’ll need a thick foil of at least 1/2 inch since the glass will be doubled up to enclose the flowers. You should also consider keeping some silver backed foil and black backed foil on hand for clear pieces, so you can’t see the copper foil peeking out when looking through the glass.

To press the foil down you will need a fid. You can use an actual fid, or anything that feels good to you! I have used a wooden tool used for clay sculpting for the last ten years. So that’s up to you. 

Soldering

First you pin your piece backwards onto a piece of wood. I use these metal push pins. Then you need to flux all the joints where foil meets foil. A very important part of making stained glass is your soldering iron. I have always had this Hakko Soldering Iron and have had zero problems with it. I put my iron on 140 degrees, but this is also personal to each artist. The type of solder I have always used is Canfield 60/40 Solder. Love it- can be pricey- but worth it! Sometimes when adding details you can use Tinned Artistic Wire. And if you choose to make your own jump rings like I do, you will use a thicker 16 Gauge Tinned Wire. I like to trim my pieces with came. I usually use 3/32 Came, but sometimes a thicker 3/16 Came is more appropriate. And to stretch my came I use a handy lil Came Grabber/Stretcher. 

Cleaning and Polishing

     Once soldering is done, you clean your piece off at the sink. I use CJS Flux Cleaner. Pat dry, air dry, then you’re ready to polish. I use this polish, let it dry, then gently wipe it with a microfiber cloth. Next I gently scrub the nooks and crannies with any toothbrush that doesn’t have any added whitening or fluoride added. Then polish again with the microfiber cloth. 

Painting 

     When I paint a piece, this is personally the time I choose to do so. I use this transparent glass paint. It works great to build color, shading and opacity. And I like to use tiniest little paint brushes for lots of details. It takes a couple of days for this paint to air dry, so try not to smudge it or get it wet. 

Hanging

     There are several types of hanging you can choose, but here are the types I use most. For my small pieces I use either thin leather cordage, or ribbon. For my medium pieces I use a thicker leather cordage and fasten with these crimping loops. To tighten the loops I use a Crimper. And for my larger pieces I use a heavy duty picture framing wire, and crimp with the crimping loops. 

Pack and Ship

Before I pack my piece, I sign the back of it. And opaque piece is best. I use this handheld etching rotary tool. I strap my piece to a piece of cardboard with foam strips and twist ties. I place bubble wrap on top, then put another piece of cardboard on top, and tape it all together snuggly with packing tape. I also like to add thank you stickers whenever possible! Then I wrap the whole thing in bubble wrap, and put it in a box with lots of newspaper fluff. On the outside of your package don’t forget to put lots of fragile stickers! 

And that’s it! I hope this helped anyone out there who was curious about process or supplies! Don’t hesitate to message me in instagram if you have any questions! 

Happy Glassing! 

-Seina // Neon Eel Studio

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